window installation

Crewleader training, and window installation this week. I thoroughly enjoyed talking to C+ during the Crew Leader training, and especially the window installation; I always do. I enjoy her stories, and the energy she brings to any project she embarks on. She was talking to me today about her career dreams. This was a very wonderful conversation, I am glad we had it, and I would like to have it again in further depth.
The following notes are extensive instructions on window installation. The only thing missing from the experience is having actually HAD the experience!
Without further ado; window installation:

You will need
• Level
• Screw gun (Dewalt drill)
• Robertson bit
• Drill bits – 3/16”, 3/8”
• Measuring tape and pencil
• Shims (2+ dozen per window)
• Exterior Foam
• Exterior caulking
• Interior (latex) caulking
• 2 1/2” screws
• Cat’s paw

The Process
1. Before the window even goes in, you will need to measure 4 1/2” from the front edge of the frame to mark out the front edge of the window. For 2 x 6 sill frame and brick exterior, you need 1 ½” of the window on the outside of the frame. If a 2 x 6 is 5 ½”, then you set window 4” back from interior edge of sill. You can use a 2x4 4” block to ensure that the window is set back from the edge in a uniform manner (rather than measuring out along the edge).
* To prevent the window from falling out, you will need to have people on ladders holding the window in place before you can fasten it properly, or a 2x4 held in place on either side of the window using screws.
2. Holes need to be drilled 6” from the top and bottom of the window, and 6” from the sides. After that, there needs to be a hole every 2’ along the width. First mark out the holes on the window casement. Then drill with a 1/16” drill bit, going all the way through. The second hole will be drilled using a 3/8” bit, and will only go about a ½” through the casement.
3. Now it’s time to set the window in place, making sure that the inside of the window is flush with the marks on the 2x6.
4. Once the window is in place, you can drive in a couple of screws to hold the window in temporarily, to prevent it from moving forward while you drill the holes in the casement.
5. The next step is to shim up the bottom of the window, making sure that it is 3/8 from the frame, and then checking that it is still level across the length, adjusting the shims until the distance is correct, and the window is level. You will need a cat’s claw (flat end) to lift the end of the window, or the claw of your hammer will suffice. Note: The windows we will be installing are actually two windows set side by side in one piece of casement, so each side of the window needs two shims, making four all together across the bottom.
6. The next and most important step is to make sure that the window is level and square within the frame. This is where the biggest mistakes are made, so double check before drilling in your screws. To check if the window is level place your level vertically along the surface of the glass, so your shoulder has to be touching the window to read the level. If the window is not level, just adjust the window by pulling it forward or pushing it backwards a little. To check if the window is square, you need to measure across the diagonal, from one corner to the other. If the measurements are the same, the window is square. If not …
7. Now that the window is level and square, the screws can be drilled through the window casement and into the wood.
* Take a break to check that the window is in the right way up, and opens properly. Don’t laugh. It could happen. This is Habitat.
8. The sides and top of the window can now be shimmed, and once this process is complete, double check that the window is square, and adjust shims if necessary. On the sides, the shims are put in place just above the screws.
* Only shim ends (of top) if necessary – but not over centre of header – just foam that gap.
9. When putting the centre screw in the bottom, you need to first coat the lower half with exterior caulking. This is important because the windows will let some rain water in from the outer screen, and they have a system built into the window itself to drain out the water. If the screw in the centre at the bottom is NOT sealed properly, water will seep out of the hole and into the wood, where mold and mildew will begin, and could lead to later water damage.
10. Once the shims are firmly in place, and the window is level and square, use the foam to fill the gaps around the window, stopping wherever there is a shim. The foam needs to be heavy enough that it is opaque. You will notice as you are going along that there are still areas you can see light through; there is not enough foam there yet.
11. The last step, not shown in the diagram, would be to cut off the ends of the shims, and cover them over with a LATEX caulking (as opposed to exterior caulking, which will eat through the foam) touching the foam on either side, to create a good seal.
12. Ta-da! You are done! Congrats, now go and get some water.

Tidbit Break
Going home w C+ until Pape we talked about ounces (weight) of hammers, and the type of hammer heads there are. Lighter the hammer, the “weaker” it will be. Framing hammers with their waffle effect even grip the nail! To continue this tidbit, At Canadian Tire I have had the chance to wield a few hammers as we are putting them up on the shelves, and I am finding that the heavier ones really do have a noticeably smoother swing, and pack more of a punch then their lighter counterparts. I have recently been able to get a feel for the swing of a hammer and their different weights from merchandising them at CTR (Lakeshore and Leslie) where I work.